These past few days I have felt more like a tourist and less like a resident of Niger! One of the big traditional sports in Niger is wrestling, or ‘Kokowa’, and this year those of us lucky in Tahoua region were lucky enough to have the championship tournament for the past five days in Tahoua. So, these past couple days a few of us headed into Tahoua to see part of the tournament as well as some of the other events that have been going on during the big event.
A bit on Kokowa- as far as I can tell it’s very similar to ‘typical’ wrestling, except as soon as one of the opponents hits the ground they lose and (I think) are out of the tournament. (I’d have to do a little research- you can only grasp so much sitting and watching) While I’ve never really been a huge wrestling fan, I was totally entertained and fully enjoyed myself for the 3 ish hours we were there. While it started at four, for some reason, we didn’t think it would be necessary to actually show up on time (NOTHING in Niger is on time), but we were mistaken, there were TONS of people there, the place was packed, and there were massive lines to the ticket area… No fear, we were fortunate enough to be attending with one of the volunteer’s Nigerien friends, who smooth-talked us right up to the front of the line of the ticket window. With no seats available and standing room only, we thought we were in for a squashed, limited-view, nose-bleed section, but, once again, things worked out pretty well- Colin asked one of the guards if he could sit on the ground (about 10 feet from the ring) under the press window area, and we all followed him over and plopped down, fully expecting to be shooed away, which instead we were interviewed by BBC! I hope the locals weren’t thinking, “Darn foreigners!” but I think we may have had some of the best seats in the house; I ended up with some great photos and video, which will (hopefully) one day be one here! The other part about sitting so close is several people that evening and the following day told us they saw us on TV! (I feel so famous) It was pretty great.
About the wrestling itself, it was actually pretty intense, especially since it was the finals. Each state or region in Niger has there own regional tournament (there are 8 of them) and, I think, the top ten in each state attend the BIG one. The winner last year was from Tahoua region, and we did get to see him wrestle… he won… I’m guessing a lot of potential for a two-year-in-a-row victory… You would think that the rounds would go pretty quickly, and some of them did, but some of them dragged on for quite a while, almost 15 minutes.
So after our wrestling viewing, we went to a concert that night which, unfortunately, I thought I wouldn’t need to bother bringing my camera… I was very angry with myself as we sat and watched several groups perform traditional songs/dances… as well as some rap and hip-hop dancing! I think that’s one of the things that strikes me as so fascinating in Niger- people wear everything from very traditional attire- Tuareg, Fulans, Wudabi, Hausa, Arabs, all have distinct traditional wear; yet some of the younger generations look like they just stepped out of a 50 cent video! Especially in Tahoua, and during such a big event, it was really cool to see the traditional vs. modern Niger, all integrated together for a traditional wrestling event.
The other day in the bush, in my village, I was thinking how lucky I was to live in such a traditional place. There really aren’t that many places left in the world that still live in such a simplistic traditional way! I wonder, in 100 years from now there will even be a place like this still? I mean, sure, you can go camping, or head up to the mountains, but even that is turning into renting a fully furnished cabin, or driving a motor-home the size of a small house to some park with running water and electricity hook-ups! I know that’s exaggerating, but I couldn’t help but feel how fortunate I am to be living in what feels like a part of history- which up until I moved here seemed like something so primitive and challanging! It still amazes me that this is how these people live and how I live, and, really, out here in the bush, things haven’t changed a whole lot for probably thousands of years. (Minus, of course, motorcycles, radios, and the ‘bling-bling gangsta’ wear the younger generations are donning. )
I really am having the time of my life here, but just so you know it hasn’t all be roses, here’s one of my more frustrating stories of my week…
So a couple days ago, one of my women friends, who happens to be the women’s-group leader (I have yet to see her hold a meeting…) shows up at my house at 9:30ish in the morning and says, I’m going to a wedding, get ready and we’ll go. Not that I mind, but this wedding was in a nearby village about 6 K away… Again, not that big of a deal, but this women tends to do this often… she often refers to me as “her Butura (white person)” and almost shows me off like some kind of show-dog (she’s a very sweet old lady, I just get a bit frustrated every now and again on the whole ‘her volunteer’ thing) then, as we showed up to this wedding, some lady announced, “Friend! You brought your Butura!” (I just smiled as I grinded my teeth). Also along the same lines of frustrating times in my village, the other day, this same woman came up to me slightly angry and tells me, “you have no truth!” and then continues in rapid Housa I couldn’t understand then walks away! I was a little affronted, but to make it worse, the women I was sitting with at the time, started in on the same thing and repeated what she was saying- I know it was partially in fun, but I was so frustrated that they were telling me I had no truth! When I finally got them to slow down and explain in a way I would understand, I discovered I apparently have no truth because I don’t visit that woman every morning before anyone else… I was not exactly calm nor happy. So then I was like, “I NEVER said I would! I have truth! I never said I would visit her EVERY morning!!” So then they were like, “no, you have no truth. The last volunteer, Raheila, SHE visited her every morning- YOU don’t.” That’s when I almost lost it and was like “I AM NOT RAHELA!” and then said “I have to go now.” And got up and left. Needless to say that is one of the most frustrating, aggravating conversations I’ve had here.
Anyway, sorry for the exceptionally long blog post, but, as this is Niger, I am sitting at the internet place, in where the internet has not been working for the past hour… so to pass the time I am pre-writing my blog… and as there is STILL no internet, it just keeps going, and going, and going, and going….
Monday, March 2, 2009
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Random stories of the Week
Once again, a little over one week later and I'm back on the computer! (its pretty exciting)... As I was trying to come up with some kind of fascinating topic, I decided why not just share a few of my more amusing stories of the week...
So, the other day, I went with some of my villagers to a bridal wedding party thing, which, when one of my village friends anked if I wanted to come, I think she was slightly suprised when I said I wanted to go because this village we went to was over 13 K away. But they were really excited that I wanted to come, so I guess the hour and a half bush walk there and back was worth it.
Anyway, the actual 'party' was, lets be honest, about 4 hours of sitting in a house listening to the other women talk in rapid Hausa, but we did eat a meal there which was very generous- usually one or two big trays are layed out with tuwo (millet mush) and sauce or rice and sauce and everyone eats from the same tray, but as I got up to join the other women on the mat (they insisted that I sit in a chair) the host shooed me back to my chair and handed me my own bowl... this is certainly not the first time I've been insisted upon to not join the others in the communal dish, and I know they are doing it out of respect, but I dont think they realize I'm feel'n a little excluded... lol! I dont know if they think I'll get sick if I eat with everyone else, or if they don't think I'll eat fast enough, but I always get my own... and a spoon ( I don't think they think I'm capable of eating with my hands- oh but I am). The other funny part is they always seem to add and extra dolup of oil, possibly thinking I'm going, 'mmmm, more grease!', but like I say, it's all out of respect and is very nice of them.
One other thing about this 'party' is that I've noticed there really isn't 'inside vrs. outside' voices here... maybe because theyre outside every hour of the day, but they all seem to have one volume- and its not quiet.
Anyway, as we were walking back from this village, there were a couple cars coming up behind us on the road, and as they all moved to the side, a few of the people shouted, "Balkissa! You should get on the other side! Then you can flag them down! You're white- they'll give you a ride!" (this really was a pretty close translation) when I laughed and continued walking, doing no more than waving as the car sped by, they all couldn't believe I haden't used my "forgiener" card to get a free ride. I casually told them I didnt mind walking, and then mentioned that it was a car from the Jica organization (similar to peace corps, but from Japan) they responded with, "oooh, they speak Japanise" and assumed that was the reason I didn't flag them down and hop a ride. I just let that one slide.
I have a lot of interesting discussions with villagers, some of my favorites having been trying to explain 'weird' customs us Americans have. One day I asked a villager what their camel's name was... "Camel" he replied. Then I tried to explain, yes, it's a camel, but does it have a name? "CAMEL!" was again my answer... so then I explained that in America, people give their animals names like people have names. He thought that was HILARIOUS... then I named his camel Frank- somehow something got lost in translation and he was like, "No, it's a Camel"... I gave up.
Another fun discussion I had, well, slightly embarrasing, was that I was talking to some ladies about the sand. (we run out of topics fast). I expained that in america, people make little mini houses out of sand, and wondered why kids didnt make sandcastles here... she got a confused and then as I looked around I realized why... the entire village is made out of mud-brick. I felt stupid.
BIG NEWS: I just want everyone to know that I made a chocolate pound cake... in the bush. You may not realize, but that is a big accomplishment when all you have is a gas cookstove. (I double-boiled that thing and it was amazing.) I have realized that life in the bush has, if nothing else, made me increadibly creative in my cooking.
So yesterday was my birthday (big 24)!!! won't go into much detail, but went up to Tahoua, had a pretty amazing "funfetti cake 'n' frosting" and had a pretty good time :) the end.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Birthdays and Sunas
I would just like to point out it has only been a little over a week since my last post, I'm pretty sure that's some kind of record...
However, since is has been so recient, Im not really sure what to write about...
First off, my b-day is on the 17th and I will be 24! I feel so old. It's an interesting question to ask villagers how old they are, my typical answers have been, "um... I dont know" (if theyre being honest), "50" (this was from a woman I am more than possitive was pushing 85+), or with kids, they all seem to be 7 or 8... (not sure I buy) But it just seems really interesting to me, comming from a culture in which so much emphasis is put on how old you are and your birthday, to come here where most people dont know or care. I keep just wanting to ask, but wait, isnt it a big deal??? I think we put maybe a little too much emphasis on individual b-days (I say this AFTER my b-day packages have been sent) however, the age thing is good argument- I think I've seen possibly 13-year-olds drive down the street on motorcycles.. a bit scary.
They do however have a "Baby-Naming Ceremony" exactly one week after the baby is born. They usually have guests all day, possibly some music and dancing, and they usually give out food of some kind and meat (if they have the money for it). I recently went to a Fulani baby-naming ceremony (or 'Suna' as they call it, meaning 'name') waaaaay out in the bush from my village. I actually kinda felt honored, first the father found me in the village one day, several days before, and asked me if I would come, which I was really wishy-washy, and said oh, maybe... then the day before two fulani girls showed up in the middle of a class I was attending and asked if I was still coming so at that point I felt obligated..
So, I admit, I thought as I started walking out to the Suna with one of my friends (who happens to be the "50" year old woman going on 85...) that I was going to an actual village. If I'd have thought about it I probably would have remembered that these Fulanis, as many do, lived and moved with their livestock, setting up encampments for a few months at a time. So it was really interesting to show up in the middle of the bush, where they had set up their life under the shade of a few trees. They were all so suprised that I had actually made the effort to head out there, it was pretty great. (Not to mention I gave up going to horse racing with a few other PCVs to go.. or I thought I was, it ended up getting canceled)
Anyway, I did take some pictures, but once again, not really in a position to be able to put them on here, so anjima I will get them up... or send them to my mom and SHE'll get them up :) (right?)
However, since is has been so recient, Im not really sure what to write about...
First off, my b-day is on the 17th and I will be 24! I feel so old. It's an interesting question to ask villagers how old they are, my typical answers have been, "um... I dont know" (if theyre being honest), "50" (this was from a woman I am more than possitive was pushing 85+), or with kids, they all seem to be 7 or 8... (not sure I buy) But it just seems really interesting to me, comming from a culture in which so much emphasis is put on how old you are and your birthday, to come here where most people dont know or care. I keep just wanting to ask, but wait, isnt it a big deal??? I think we put maybe a little too much emphasis on individual b-days (I say this AFTER my b-day packages have been sent) however, the age thing is good argument- I think I've seen possibly 13-year-olds drive down the street on motorcycles.. a bit scary.
They do however have a "Baby-Naming Ceremony" exactly one week after the baby is born. They usually have guests all day, possibly some music and dancing, and they usually give out food of some kind and meat (if they have the money for it). I recently went to a Fulani baby-naming ceremony (or 'Suna' as they call it, meaning 'name') waaaaay out in the bush from my village. I actually kinda felt honored, first the father found me in the village one day, several days before, and asked me if I would come, which I was really wishy-washy, and said oh, maybe... then the day before two fulani girls showed up in the middle of a class I was attending and asked if I was still coming so at that point I felt obligated..
So, I admit, I thought as I started walking out to the Suna with one of my friends (who happens to be the "50" year old woman going on 85...) that I was going to an actual village. If I'd have thought about it I probably would have remembered that these Fulanis, as many do, lived and moved with their livestock, setting up encampments for a few months at a time. So it was really interesting to show up in the middle of the bush, where they had set up their life under the shade of a few trees. They were all so suprised that I had actually made the effort to head out there, it was pretty great. (Not to mention I gave up going to horse racing with a few other PCVs to go.. or I thought I was, it ended up getting canceled)
Anyway, I did take some pictures, but once again, not really in a position to be able to put them on here, so anjima I will get them up... or send them to my mom and SHE'll get them up :) (right?)
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
January 29th... into the bush and out of the bush...
In and out of the bush... I feel like I'm living a double life! Not that I'm a whole different person, but village life definately differs from that of hostel life, and I've come to realize they are both sooo equally important.
So, not much new, just the average Niger living... Heres a little sampler:
7:00-ish am (sunrise): get up, make myself a delicious breakfast of warm milk and peanut-butter cous-cous (ok, lets talk a little about oh-so-necissary food staples of bush life; A)Powdered milk- I'm partial to the Nido and France Lait brands, and B) a nice, au-naturalle peanut butter (I buy it in bulk- aka, I bring an empty powdered milk can to the guy who makes it and he fills it up))
8:00-ish (nothing's exact or 'yanzu' as many bush taxi drivers would like you to believe):put away my bedding (I sleep outside on a millet-stock bed (with matteress) under a mosquito net) do my dishes, you know, all that typical home-ec stuff... maybe a little studying after that (well, by study I mean read whichever novel I'm up to at that point- I've discovered theres a whole world of written literature out there I didnt know about...)
Somewhere between 9:30 and 10:30: take a walk around the village, stopping to chat with villagers for a couple hours (you should all be impressed that my language skills have advanced beyond greetings and talking about pounding millet... I now point at things and either ask what the names are, or announce the name ("goat!" "Chicken!"...) it's fabulous.
Noonish: back to the house- it's too hot and the sun is out. really.
1 or 2:00: now, at this point I shake things up a bit and vary my days from time to time... sometimes I go to the womens literacy class, you know, to observe, study, listen to them talk about me (they're pretty sure I don't understand- boy have I fooled them) and some days I sit and play cards with my neighbor kids- well, by play, realize that these are 10-13 year olds who I am beginning to think dont REALLY know how to play, either that or after several games I still dont understand the seamingly ever-changing rules.
4:00 ish: this is when I go hang out with some of my friends in the village, there are some wonderful people that I have met, some wonderful families that are really fun to just sit and talk with. I've also gotten henna done, and braids a few times. The people are really great and so genrous with everything they have.
S0 at 6:00 on, I take my bucket bath, make some dinner, and to be honest, Im usually in bed by 8:30... It's, as you can tell, a rough life..
So I hope that was enlightening- keep in mind this is only the typical day of my first month- once I get a little busier I'm guessing things might change a bit. :)
So, not much new, just the average Niger living... Heres a little sampler:
7:00-ish am (sunrise): get up, make myself a delicious breakfast of warm milk and peanut-butter cous-cous (ok, lets talk a little about oh-so-necissary food staples of bush life; A)Powdered milk- I'm partial to the Nido and France Lait brands, and B) a nice, au-naturalle peanut butter (I buy it in bulk- aka, I bring an empty powdered milk can to the guy who makes it and he fills it up))
8:00-ish (nothing's exact or 'yanzu' as many bush taxi drivers would like you to believe):put away my bedding (I sleep outside on a millet-stock bed (with matteress) under a mosquito net) do my dishes, you know, all that typical home-ec stuff... maybe a little studying after that (well, by study I mean read whichever novel I'm up to at that point- I've discovered theres a whole world of written literature out there I didnt know about...)
Somewhere between 9:30 and 10:30: take a walk around the village, stopping to chat with villagers for a couple hours (you should all be impressed that my language skills have advanced beyond greetings and talking about pounding millet... I now point at things and either ask what the names are, or announce the name ("goat!" "Chicken!"...) it's fabulous.
Noonish: back to the house- it's too hot and the sun is out. really.
1 or 2:00: now, at this point I shake things up a bit and vary my days from time to time... sometimes I go to the womens literacy class, you know, to observe, study, listen to them talk about me (they're pretty sure I don't understand- boy have I fooled them) and some days I sit and play cards with my neighbor kids- well, by play, realize that these are 10-13 year olds who I am beginning to think dont REALLY know how to play, either that or after several games I still dont understand the seamingly ever-changing rules.
4:00 ish: this is when I go hang out with some of my friends in the village, there are some wonderful people that I have met, some wonderful families that are really fun to just sit and talk with. I've also gotten henna done, and braids a few times. The people are really great and so genrous with everything they have.
S0 at 6:00 on, I take my bucket bath, make some dinner, and to be honest, Im usually in bed by 8:30... It's, as you can tell, a rough life..
So I hope that was enlightening- keep in mind this is only the typical day of my first month- once I get a little busier I'm guessing things might change a bit. :)
Thursday, January 1, 2009
All Alone in the Bush
Ok, Not all alone! So, Ive been at my new post for over two weeks now, bringing my total Niger-time up to almost 3 months.. (CRAZY) Time flies...
So, recap, spent a week in my new village before Christmas, headed into the regional hostel for the festivities, a couple days later headed back out to begin the infamous 'one-month-at-post'. The first week in village was a little shakey, lets be honest. New house, new neighbors, new language, and all about 30 K from the nearest PC Voulunteer.. My villagers are really nice though, and just like moving anywhere, I knew it would take a little while to settle in and feel at home. I can now report that the village is awesome and I love every part of it (well, that three-hour walk to the main road is a bit... harsh) I'm really starting to make friends in my village and find out who I want to hang out with and work with (you know, who has the pet cat, who makes the best millett, etc..), and I'm pretty excited about the next few years.
Life's a bit slow right now as really my only responsabilities are to learn Hausa and to integrate into my community.. that leaves a lot of free time!
I've started jogging in the mornings, which is fairly amusing. My villagers find anyone who would run down the road and back, simply for the joy of it really amuzing. Exercise to them (not suprised) is an odd concept as they really just dont have the time or extra energy for wierd activites like running. It does make for good conversation though!
So, recap, spent a week in my new village before Christmas, headed into the regional hostel for the festivities, a couple days later headed back out to begin the infamous 'one-month-at-post'. The first week in village was a little shakey, lets be honest. New house, new neighbors, new language, and all about 30 K from the nearest PC Voulunteer.. My villagers are really nice though, and just like moving anywhere, I knew it would take a little while to settle in and feel at home. I can now report that the village is awesome and I love every part of it (well, that three-hour walk to the main road is a bit... harsh) I'm really starting to make friends in my village and find out who I want to hang out with and work with (you know, who has the pet cat, who makes the best millett, etc..), and I'm pretty excited about the next few years.
Life's a bit slow right now as really my only responsabilities are to learn Hausa and to integrate into my community.. that leaves a lot of free time!
I've started jogging in the mornings, which is fairly amusing. My villagers find anyone who would run down the road and back, simply for the joy of it really amuzing. Exercise to them (not suprised) is an odd concept as they really just dont have the time or extra energy for wierd activites like running. It does make for good conversation though!
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